Recently, Maxine, Edie and I stayed at Cape Lookout campgrounds. We were later joined by one of my closest friends and her daughter. The kids built sand castles, rode scooters around the campground and roasted s’mores at this amazingly family friendly camping spot. We moms were happy to chat and “eat” all the sand cupcakes, sand smoothies and sand sandwiches the kids made us.

This state park, next to Netarts and Tillamook, Oregon, is known for more than its beautiful campgrounds. It’s also the landing site of parasailers! You can watch them zoom in for a landing right over your head on the stretch of beach.

Speaking of beaches, Cape Lookout State Park’s 3 miles of beaches stretch wide, ideal for beach combing and playing with kids. You can go whale watching from the beach or up on the cliffs from Cape Lookout Trail.

If you’re into glamping—or doing shoulder season camping with kids in Oregon—you’ll love the yurts and cabins! Both have electricity and covered porches, which is helpful if the weather turns out to be rainy.

No matter the weather, though, I’m betting you’ll heart Cape Lookout State Park camping. I’m head over heels for the campground, beaches and experience of watching the hang gliders. Get ready to fall in love, too.

Cape Lookout camping

Cape Lookout State Park camping is one of my favorite places to set up a tent (or cozy up in a yurt) on the Oregon Coast. The campgrounds are impeccably maintained and have easy access to the beach.

At just an hour and a half from Portland and 15 minutes south of Tillamook, Cape Lookout State Park is an easy choice for camping. Even though it’s close to the Portland metro area, the campground feels like a world away.

Campgrounds nestle among Western red cedars, Sitka spruce, Douglas firs and salal. Trees grow together, their roots twining around each other—and creating a natural jungle gym for kids. Red-winged blackbirds call to each other; keep an eye out for bald eagles soaring overhead.

The Cape Lookout State Park campground includes 170 tent sites, 38 full-hookup RV sites, 13 yurts and 6 cabins with heat and running water. The campground also includes bathrooms with flush toilets and hot showers. Campsites don’t have ocean views—a human-made dune separates the beach from the campground to protect the sites. You can clearly hear the ocean waves from the campground, though!

The park hosts in Loop C sell firewood for $5 a bundle, as well as ice for $2 per bag.

Group sites are currently closed because of COVID precautions. All other Cape Lookout campground reservations can be made on Reserve America.

My kids are already asking to go back to the Cape Lookout State Park campground!

Cape Lookout yurts

When we recently camped at Cape Lookout, we stayed at one of the pet-friendly yurts. Yurts are located in Loop C, just a short walk from beach access.

Oregon State Park yurts have electric and heat, which makes them perfect for shoulder season camping. (The weather in Oregon’s spring and fall can be hit or miss. Staying cozy inside a yurt while it rains makes everyone comfortable!)

Yurts are outfitted with a small table and chairs, a bunk bed and a futon that folds out into another bed. You can comfortably fit five people inside.

I also noticed that yurts now come with an air purifier. These air purifiers are left running after staff clean the yurt between guests. That said, we always leave the yurt door open while we unpack to get some fresh air inside.

Yurts, like tent sites, each have their own picnic table and fire ring. You can fit two cars in the parking spot, though a second car requires a $7 per night additional fee.

Cape Lookout cabins

Cape Lookout State Park is special for many reasons—including the cabins you can rent to glamp on the Oregon Coast!

Six deluxe Cape Lookout cabins are available to reserve in advance. These cabins fill up incredibly quickly—as you can imagine, there’s quite the demand for only a few cabins. To reserve one, you’ll need to be aware of when state parks open for reservations. (Reserve America typically opens a month of calendar days at a time, six months in advance. So in March, you can reserve through September.)

Cape Lookout cabins are equipped with electricity, heat and hot water. They also include a microwave and small fridge. A bathroom within the cabin includes a flush toilet and shower. Bring your own bedding and supplies such as dishes.

You can sit out on the covered porch if it’s raining, and in good weather eat outdoors at the picnic table. The state park includes only six cabins, which are located separately from yurts and tent sites, so you’ll have a more secluded experience with hardly any neighbors.

You’ll need to walk about 250 feet from the parking area down a gravel path to reach cabins. Three cabins are pet-friendly.

Rates for Cape Lookout cabins are $106 per night. This fee may vary depending on when you reserve and if you are bringing pets.

Cape Lookout beaches

The beaches at Cape Lookout are some of my favorite on the Oregon Coast. The beach runs more than three miles, a flat and beautiful stretch where you can find your perfect spot.

Access the beach at Cape Lookout in a handful of places. The easiest to access is from the day use area. Here, park in the lot (which also has restrooms). Just remember to pay the $5 day use fee—the fees are enforced by state park rangers.

A short hill leads from the parking area down to the beach. (I’m acutely aware of the accessibility of beach access points ever since I broke my foot. This point was not easy for me to navigate in my iWalk/peg leg.)

This is the beach where you can watch paragliders land!

Nearer to the Cape Lookout campground, reach the beach via several short trails. You’ll need to walk up a bit over the dune then back down again to the beach. These access points were easier for me to navigate.

Currently, the road to beach access points at the north end of Cape Lookout State Park is closed. If you’re camping here, though, you can walk or bike along this road. Since it’s less easily accessible, the northern stretch of the beach is much less popular. You’ll probably have the whole beach to yourself!

As with any beach on the Oregon Coast, take safety precautions. Be aware of weather and sea conditions. Never turn your back on the ocean. Watch for sneaker waves.

Cape Lookout Trail

As of this writing, Cape Lookout Trail is damaged due to storm damage. A strong wind storm in late 2020 blew down trees, making this trail unusable. Double-check AllTrails or another user generated hiking guide for up-to-date trail status.

This out-and-back trail winds along the cliffs of Cape Lookout, giving you incredible views across the Pacific Ocean. Cape Lookout Trail has little elevation gain. Instead of focusing on strenuous up-and-down trail conditions, then, you can take in the scenery.

Just under 5 miles, Cape Lookout Trail stretches along the peninsula about 400 feet above the sea. You’ll hike through dense forest with glimpses of the ocean before reaching the viewpoint. Here, take a rest on the bench overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

This hike is one of the best spots on the Oregon Coast to see migrating gray whales, which swim along this point close to the cliffs.

Cape Lookout Trail is often muddy so bring sturdy shoes and, if you have them, hiking poles for stability. People have placed boards and branches over the muddiest spots, but you’ll still need to carefully tiptoe around mucky areas. Keep an eye out for exposed roots.

If you’re hiking with kids, keep them nearby. It’s easy to trip in places. When you get near the lookout at the turnaround point, keep children close. The viewpoint is roped off from the cliff but better safe than sorry.

Another tip if you’re hiking with kids: A B-17 bomber crashed here in 1943. Authorities never accounted for all the wreckage. Tell them the story—they’ll love keeping an eye out for plane parts!

Bring your binoculars, too. On a clear day, you can see south to Cape Kiwanda and Cape Foulweather and north to Cape Meares and Maxwell Point.

Campground nature trail

If you park in the lot next to the registration booth (or walk the short distance from the campground), you’ll find the nature trail. This short, family-friendly trail loops through a flat area in the forest.

Markers signal points of interest. Pick up a brochure from the registration booth or look at a digital version here to learn about the area’s plants and history.

At the very least, check out the nature trail to learn the names of the native trees and other plants (like skunk cabbage!).

Cape Lookout paragliding from Anderson’s Viewpoint

Cape Lookout is famous for its parasailing, paragliding and hang gliding. On days with good wind conditions, you’ll see these adrenaline seekers land on the beach mere feet from you!

From the Anderson’s Viewpoint parking lot, soarers walk a short way up the hill to the launch site. They may spend hours gliding over the coastal cliffs, riding winds and taking in the incredible views.

Cape Lookout is also one of the most dangerous paragliding spots on the Oregon Coast. Only experienced soarers should fly here. If you’re new to paragliding, try this sport with an experienced guide or outfitter.

If you’re more interested in watching paragliders than launching yourself into the air 330 feet above the ocean, Cape Lookout State Park is perfect for you, too! From the day use parking lot, walk onto the beach. You’ll see a cone and wind sock that acts as a landmark for paragliders.

You can watch landings from a safe distance directly next to the cone or farther along the beach in either direction. Please be courteous to anyone who asks you to move for safety.

We were thrilled to see people land. Edie can’t wait to try paragliding for herself! She’s already planning a trip with Hubs; I’ll watch (aka try not to panic) from below, once Edie is old enough to try.

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Have you tried camping in a yurt yet? Basically, yurt camping happened when tent camping and rustic cabins had a lovechild. Yurt camping gives you the best of both worlds: closeness to nature and the chance to build a campfire, but with a roof over your head, electricity and heat.

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens was actually the first time we stayed in a yurt as a family, and we’ve done it many times since. (After all, Oregon’s dog-friendly yurts make it easy for our kids and pets!). Yurt camping in Oregon also lets us extend the camping season to the shoulder seasons and even the winter.

You see, when you have two young kids, the idea of tent camping in the spring, fall or winter—when weather could be awesome or could be pouring down rain—is too risky to chance it. Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens was a budget-friendly way to spend a few days outdoors—without the risk of getting completely and miserably soaked.

Ft. Stevens has more to offer than great camping accommodations, though. Whether you come to camp or for day use, you’ll love exploring this enormous state park. Play on the beach, climb the dunes, explore the Fort Stevens military base and climb in a real-live shipwreck from more than 100 years ago!

Bottom line: We absolutely love yurt camping, and Ft. Stevens State Park was a gorgeous, fun-filled place to camp. We visit this epic Oregon Coast destination whenever we can!

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: The yurts

You’re not exactly glamping when you’re staying in a state park yurt, but it has enough to be comfortable. It’s a small, round room with a bunk bed, a futon that can serve as a couch or lay flat as a bed, a table, two chairs—and electricity and heat. Standard yurts don’t have a bathroom (you have to walk a short distance to use the campground restrooms), although some campgrounds have deluxe yurts with a bathroom and tiny kitchen.

Heck yes!

I loved our yurt’s skylight, which kept the small space from feeling cramped. Our yurt had four outlets, all next to the door, and it was one of the yurts at Ft. Stevens that allowed pets. (When you make your reservation on Reserve America—the site that arranges campsite rentals for Ft. Stevens—make sure you select a dog-friendly yurt. These are marked by a little icon of a dog. You can also filter the available campsites by clicking the “yurt” button, so you’re only shown yurts—not other types of camping.)

Each Fort Stevens yurt has green space between its neighbors, and the yurt loop was tucked aside so the girls had a quiet road to ride their bikes. Hubs brought his disc golf basket and had plenty of room to putt. That said, you’re not that far from your neighbors, so you will hear noise from other sites—pretty standard for family camping in state parks.

When it rains, you’ll be beyond grateful for the yurt. During the most recent camping trip to Ft Stevens, it poured buckets one night. We 100% would have woken up in water had we been tent camping. Thankfully we stayed dry and cozy in the yurt!

See, that’s one of the best parts about yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: You can stay in this park even when the weather could be wet. When it rains, we all go inside for a little bit to read books, play board games or watch a movie on the kids’ tablet. As soon as the rain stops, we head back out to explore the park—or make s’mores!

Level 10 travel tip: There’s a Starbucks a 10 minutes’ drive away in Warrenton for parents who want a little more luxury than campfire coffee.

Camping in Ft. Stevens, Oregon: The campgrounds

Between the yurts, cabins, tent spots and RV sites, Ft. Stevens State Park has roughly 500 camping sites. We usually opt for much smaller campgrounds, but I was impressed that Ft. Stevens didn’t feel overrun with people. This is partly because of the two sections of campgrounds: south and north. In addition, sites are separated in loops, so you always have some space around you.

One benefit of staying at a large campground was all the amenities: hot showers, potable water spigots every few sites, wheelchair-accessible campsites, trash and recycling facilities, and clean bathrooms.

Note that there are now just two centralized trash and recycling centers—one in the north loops and another in the south. These have receptacles for garbage as well as cardboard, cans, plastic bottles, glass and even debris you’ve found on the beach. This means you’ll have to hang onto trash, including dog waste bags, then make a trip to the trash area. We didn’t find it inconvenient—it is just a part of the nightly routine so animals don’t get into the garbage bag!

Ft. Stevens also has miles of hiking trails and bike paths, as well as a playground. The next time we visit Fort Stevens, we’ll bring all our bikes and pedal from the campground all the way to the historic military fort. The bike path winds through forest, past a bird observation blind and across a few bridges—terrific scenery kids love.

Bottom line: There are plenty of family-friendly activities to keep you and the kids busy!

Level 10 travel tip: Watch for the camp hosts driving a golf cart: They’ll deliver firewood to your site! Wood is $6 a bundle, and fire starters are $1 apiece.

Oregon’s Ft. Stevens: The beach

Ft. Stevens State Park is enormous: It’s made up of 4,300 acres of the northernmost part of the Oregon Coast, and it bumps up against the Columbia River. Several miles of wide beach stretches along the park. Three main entry points provide access to the all-public beach. This helps spread people out so there aren’t huge crowds on nice days, like there are in nearby Seaside, Oregon.

In fact, one of the days we were yurt camping in Ft. Stevens, we were the only ones on the beach we could see.

Did know that every square inch of the Oregon Coast is public, meaning no one can buy the beach? #peoplescoast

Level 10 travel tip: Cars are allowed to drive on certain stretches of the beach in Ft. Stevens, which isn’t really my thing, but be sure to watch for cars when you have little kids or dogs running around.

Dunes line the beach, too. My kids love climbing the dunes then running full-speed down the sandy mountains!

Ft. Stevens camping: The shipwreck

When I told Edie there was a shipwreck on the beach in Ft. Stevens, she told me, “But shipwrecks are only underwater.” She was completely enchanted, then, when she spotted the rusted remains of the Peter Iredale, an English ship that ran aground here in 1906.

The metal skeleton of the ship is a highlight of Ft. Stevens State Park and attracts small crowds of visitors. Peeper and Kiwi delighted in looking around the shipwreck and spotting more pieces a short distance away from the main wreckage. Some of them were essentially tide pools, housing sea creatures inside. The shipwreck is a must-see highlight if you’re yurt camping in Ft. Stevens State Park. 

Level 10 travel tip: If your kids are really interested in the shipwreck, you can bring along a pirate’s hat or a few other props and take pictures of them dressed as buccaneers in front of the wreckage!

The Peter Iredale was just one ship among many that sank in this area of the Oregon Coast. This area is nicknamed the Graveyard of the Pacific, since about 2,000 ships have sunk here since the late 1700s!

Stormy weather plus a sandbar where the Pacific meets the Columbia River make for treacherous sailing. The combined river and ocean currents can cause dangerous waves that rise at a moment’s notice.

Thankfully human-made jetties and dredging have made this area safer. You and your family can also safely explore the shipwreck at Ft. Stevens—just watch the tide!

Fort Stevens historic military site

Ft. Stevens was a built during the Civil War and operated until World War II. Even if military history isn’t a huge attraction for your family, there’s plenty to explore here. A museum holds military artifacts, and a walking tour will take you to see historic military artifacts like tanks, gun batteries, searchlights and more.

You can step inside some of the abandoned buildings and see how time has taken a toll on this military fort. Climb atop the fort and walk the sentry walls to dive into the past.

Level 10 travel tip: If you visit with kids, don’t miss the museum. The lovely volunteer there gave my kids a challenge, and once they answered her (easy) question, she gave them a free Ft. Stevens pin! They were overjoyed.

The Ft. Stevens historical site also includes several viewpoints of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. Bring your binoculars: You will likely see different birds, and if you’re there during whale watching season, keep an eye out for their spouts.

Level 10 travel tip: Kids who are interested in the military will love the tour that runs from inside a 1954 army truck (with wheels taller than a 4-year-old!).

Fort Stevens was actually attacked by a Japanese submarine during World War II. The military, government and even citizens worried about an attempted invasion during these years and so posted units of soldiers here for defense.

Ft. Stevens Disc Golf Course

Much to my brother’s and husband’s excitement, the Ft. Stevens disc golf course is now open! You can play the 18-hole course, called Columbia Shores Disc Golf Course, when you visit the Fort Stevens Military Site. The course includes long and short tee positions to make it fun for both beginners and more experienced DG-ers.

This disc golf course is built alongside the Columbia River, so it gets quite windy. Wear layers and be prepared for your discs to misbehave.

Still, the views from some of the tee pads are epic.

Please respect directions to not play certain holes during the winter. This area is important nesting habitat for birds, and their populations depend on having undisturbed nests. The nesting grounds give a different meaning to the phrase “birdie” for disc golf! (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)

You can buy discs in the military site museum/visitor center. You can also borrow them from the Ft. Stevens campground—ask park hosts or inquire at the campground visitor center. Remember to pay the $5 day use fee or use your Oregon State Parks annual pass.

Fort Stevens camping: Coffenbury Lake

Freshwater Coffenbury Lake is a short hike or bike ride away from many of the campsites at Ft. Stevens. The lake has two swimming areas as well as a boat ramp and picnic tables. (Speed limit for boats is 10 mph.)

When we were there, plenty of folks were fishing. If you do fish, please respect other campers and properly dispose of the debris when you clean the fish, and make sure you collect all fishing line and hooks for everyone’s safety.

Level 10 travel tip: A 2-mile trail winds all around the lake, making it a flat and easy hike for even little walkers.

Picnic tables surround Coffenburry Lake, especially from the southern access point. There is also a restroom with flush toilets.

Even more things to do at Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon!

Take a breath: Can you believe there are even more fun things to do at Fort Stevens State Park? I know, this Oregon Coast park is enormous!

To explore the park fully, you’ll need to drive. Bikes are not allowed past certain points, and it’s too far to walk from one point to another. Though if you’re committed, you can hike the entirety of the trails, including some that go along the sand dunes and the jetty!

Ft. Stevens Observation Tower

Drive north on the main road within Ft. Stevens to reach Lot C, on the South Jetty. There, a wooden observation tower gives you a view of the Pacific Ocean from two stories up.

The platform is big enough to accommodate several groups while maintaining safe social distance. You need to climb stairs to get to the top: The observation tower is not accessible to people in wheelchairs or with other mobility limitations.

What I love about the observation tower in Ft. Stevens State Park is that it gives you a different perspective on the Pacific Ocean. Typically, we see the sea as it breaks along a beach. Here, though, the jetty juts out into the ocean itself. Waves are big and wild. The tower provides a sense of the sea’s power, especially on a stormy day!

Columbia River estuary

One of the things that makes this part of the Oregon Coast so unique is that it’s where the ocean and the Columbia River meet. (For American history fans, the Columbia River is how the famous explorers Lewis and Clark found their way to the Pacific Ocean. They overwintered near Ft. Stevens, at Fort Clatsop in Astoria, OR.)

The Columbia River is enormous. Maxine and Edie kept calling it the ocean, and it’s an easy to make mistake! Big ships still use the river to access ports inland.

From Lot D within Ft. Stevens, you can walk a short trail to the bank of the Columbia River. But as it’s connected to the ocean, its height varies with the tide. When we visited near low tide, the water receded and left a huge, flat beach. The kids loved running around and wading into the water.

While you’re here, walk along the wooden boardwalk to the bird blind bunker. (I know, it sounds like something out of a post-apocalyptic story, but trust me!) It’s a little concrete shelter where you can watch for birds within this shorebird conservation area.

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: What you need to know

Now that you’re beyond excited to camp at Ft. Stevens State Park in Oregon, here are the nitty gritty details you need:

• You can reserve a yurt (or any other site) at Ft. Stevens up to 6 months in advance, and you’ll need to make reservations months ahead of time for peak season camping, especially for weekend dates.
• Yurts are $48 per night, or $58 per night for a pet-friendly yurt.
• Ft. Stevens State Park is about 20 minutes north of Seaside, and about 2 hours from Portland.
• Yurts have electricity and heat, but the only cooking facilities are your campfire! (That means no cooking inside the yurt.)
• Yurts have mattresses but no bedding. Bring your own blankets or sleeping bags.
• Please double-check all information on the Oregon State Parks website. All info here has been updated for 2022, but it may change in the future.

FAQs for Fort Stevens camping

Is there wifi at Fort Stevens?

Nope. You’ll be semi-rustic while camping at Fort Stevens State Park, so don’t expect wifi. In fact, some areas of the park might have only spotty cell service.

The Hammond, Oregon KOA across the street from the entrance to Fort Stevens State Park does have so-so wifi. There’s also a Starbucks a few miles down the road.

Are dogs allowed at Fort Stevens State Park?

Absolutely! (Our two rescue dogs, Finn and Luna, love camping and playing on the beach at Ft. Stevens!) That said, dogs must remain on-leash throughout the park.

Dog poop bags are stationed periodically throughout the park and Fort Stevens campground. Please be courteous and always pick up after your pet.

In general, the beaches on the Oregon Coast are very friendly to off-leash dogs. That said, if your dog is aggressive or can’t be trusted with voice commands, it’s best to keep them on-leash.

Can you have campfires at Fort Stevens State Park?

Yes! Campsites at Fort Stevens State Park include fire rings, which are the only areas where campfires are allowed.

The Oregon State Parks system sometimes starts a fire ban, though. During late summer, when risk for wildfires increases, don’t be surprised if you’re not allowed to burn at your Ft. Stevens campsite.

Whenever you burn a campfire, make sure to practice safety. Keep a bucket of water nearby, keep flames lower than hip-level, and always fully extinguish a fire before walking away. Safety first!

Does the Ft. Stevens campground sell firewood, ice, etc?

Yes! To encourage social distancing, wood sales are self-serve much of the year. (In peak camping season, a camp host drives through the campground selling wood from a golf card—what service!) Wood barns are located throughout the park, where you can buy bundles of wood ($6) and kindling ($3). Take what you need and leave payment in a locked box.

Ft. Stevens also has an information booth at the intersection between the north and south loops. Here, you can get brochures on things to do on the Oregon Coast as well as buy ice. Pay attention to the booth’s hours of service, though. It has shortened operation during non-peak months.

Hoo boy, that’s a lot of information about Fort Stevens camping! We’ve covered campgrounds, all the amenities at this state park, fun activities to keep you entertained, and lots of details about the Fort Stevens yurts.

When we left, we all waved goodbye to our yurt—a little sadly. But I won’t be too heartbroken; after all, we’ll go yurt camping again soon.

Have you ever gone yurt camping before, or have you been to Ft. Stevens State Park in Oregon? What did you think?

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