I first visited Hosmer Lake, just off the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway, on a moonlight canoe trip. We paddled under the stars thanks to our friends at Wanderlust Tours and Visit Bend. Even in the dark, this lake made me fall even deeper in love with Central Oregon.

If you’re planning a trip to the Bend, OR area, read on. If you’re not, I’m sorry. But you’ll want to continue anyway. The photos of mountains, still lake water and Central Oregon high desert are worth the scroll.

Below, find all the details you need to visit Hosmer Lake along the Cascade Lakes Highway. You’ll find how to get there, what to do when you arrive, and camping details.

Buckle up your life jacket. Let’s go.

Cascades scenery: Hosmer Lake

Hosmer is one of many alpine lakes on Mt. Bachelor near Bend, OR. On your drive up, up, up the mountain you’ll pass plenty of other lakes: Devils Lake, Sparks Lake and Elk Lake, to name a handful.

Hosmer Lake was renamed in the 1960s after naturalist Paul Hosmer, who lived in nearby Bend. (It has a much nicer ring than its former name, Mud Lake.)

The lake’s most distinctive characteristic: all the bulrush wands and other vegetation that grows along the shore. In fact, these aquatic plants grow in the water and make the lake just a little bit smaller every year.

This plant habitat and its shallowness also make it an incredible place to spot wildlife. Stay still and keep your eyes open. You may be rewarded with a sighting of ducks, eagles, osprey, crawdads and even otter!

(I spotted an otter playing and diving in the reeds on my most recent stand up paddle boarding trip to Hosmer. Pretty sure I squee-ed out loud.)

This is a moderately popular spot, especially for fishing. (More on that later.) That’s partly because this lake is just 45 minutes from Bend, OR and 40 minutes from Sunriver.

When I recently paddled here on a summer weekday, I had no problem finding a parking spot. And once I got on the water, I had plenty of space. Much of my time on the lake was spent with no one else in sight.

Paddling Hosmer Lake, Oregon

Only electric powered boats (i.e. no gas engines) are allowed on Hosmer Lake. But really, just about everyone paddles their own watercraft.

Do like we Oregonians do and go by canoe, kayak, rowboat, fishing catamaran or—my favorite—stand up paddle board. (Mine is similar to this SUP setup—affiliate link.) As long as you’re powering it with your own muscles, it’s ideal for Hosmer.

Oftentimes Hosmer Lake feels more like a river than a lake. The rushes that grow thick at the edge of the shore make it seem even more narrow than the fingers of the lake are.

(I couldn’t help but think of that scene in the 1951 movie African Queen, when Katharine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart get stuck in the maze-like reeds!)

Hosmer Lake isn’t big, which is part of its appeal. You can explore every turn, inlet and channel in one outing.

The other day, I paddled my stand up paddle board from the boat ramp to the opposite end of the lake in about 40 minutes. With such a winding perimeter and little areas to discover, you can easily spend most of a day here.

Fishing at Hosmer Lake

Roughly half of the people I saw at this lake near Bend, OR were fishing. Fish love the buffet of water bugs, damsel flies and other insects that make Hosmer their home.

The result: Big, fat fish.

I saw rainbow fish longer than my forearm swim beneath my SUP. Hosmer Lake is also good fishing for brook trout.

You won’t be able to grill ’em, though. This popular fishing spot is catch-and-release on all fish species. You’re also required to use barbless hooks.

This is the kind of fishing my kids prefer anyway. Maxine and Edie are fascinated by the idea of fishing, but poor little Max freaks out when you even hint at eating one. (“I’m a friend to all animals,” she tells us resolutely.)

Swimming with a view of Mt. Bachelor

Swimming in the shadow of Cascade peaks? Sounds dreamy. Hosmer Lake isn’t the best place for swimming, though there are a few exceptions.

Firstly, know that Hosmer Lake is shallow. With an average depth of just three feet, it’s paradise for aquatic plants. It probably won’t surprise you, then, that much of the lake bed grows underwater plants.

I personally don’t love the feeling of an underwater plant wrapping around my ankle. It reminds me too much of the Creature from the Black Lagoon movies I used to watch as a kid. (And yes, I grew up on black and white movies. Ha!)

That said, I did find a little spot tucked away at the far end of Hosmer Lake that was great for swimming. This little beach was rock—no sinking in mud with every step.

(I did my best to approximate the location of this little cove. I think this star will at least get you very close to a good swimming spot!)

Here, the water was so clear that I spent about 20 minutes watching nature’s soap opera unfold. Water bugs glided, butterflies were chased off by dragonflies, and a crawdad hunted critters too small for me to see.

Hosmer Lake Campground

There are technically two Hosmer Lake Campgrounds, but they’re practically in the same spot.

South Lake Campground is directly next to the day use area and boat launch. Mallard Marsh Campground is a bit farther away, which could be inconvenient if you just want to launch your kayak but preferable if you want more privacy.

Folks who want to stay at this cascade lake can reserve camp sites here. A handful of walk-up sites are also available, though you can stay only one night. Camp sites average $16 per night.

Expect Hosmer Lake camping to be pretty standard: The sites are medium-sized and every spot has a picnic table and fire pit. Vault toilets (i.e. not flushing) were well maintained and clean when I visited. These campgrounds do not have potable water, though, so bring your own.

Must-know details to visit Hosmer Lake

Day use

Even if you’re staying at the Hosmer Lake campground, you’ll need to pay the day use fee if you park next to the boat ramp. The fee is $5.

Make sure to bring cash and exact change. This day use area doesn’t have a machine to process credit cards. Don’t forget to leave the proof of payment stub on your dashboard.

A handful of other passes are valid (though not the Oregon State Parks pass). List of valid park passes for the Hosmer Lake day use area

If you’ve already paid the day use fee that same day elsewhere, you do not need to buy an additional one for that site. The pass is valid for the entire day, wherever the parks are valid. So if you go from Elk Lake to Hosmer, you don’t have to pay twice.

Directions to Hosmer Lake

From Bend, OR, drive south on the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. You’ll wind around Mt. Bachelor and pass other Cascade lakes. After 34 miles, turn left onto Mud Lake Rd., which has a sign for Hosmer Lake. Expect a 45-minute drive from Bend.

From Sunriver, OR, drive west on Conklin Rd./NF 40. Take a right on Century Dr., which takes you to the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. Take a right. After 5 or 6 miles, you’ll see a sign for Hosmer Lake on your right. Expect a 40-minute drive from Sunriver.

When to visit

Hosmer Lake tends to be closed October through May because of snow. The Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway is snowed in until warm summer months melt the snow.

So visit Hosmer Lake June through September. Check road conditions and closures before your drive.

Amenities

The day use area has a well maintained vault toilet—it was quite clean when I recently visited. You’ll see a garbage can near the spot to pay the day use fee. (Garbage cans are such a welcome perk when you’re on a road trip!)

One picnic table sits to the side at the day use area. This is where I sat and ate lunch after my SUP paddle on the lake. It has a nice view of the area around the boat ramp. I watched a few men fish (one unsuccessfully, as he lamented loudly) and someone take macro photography of insects.

Speaking of, insects can be plentiful at Hosmer Lake. I’ve never had an issue with bugs, but be on the safe side and bring insect repellant just in case.

Don’t miss this beautiful lake near Bend, Oregon

Hosmer Lake will always hold a special place in my heart after Hubs and I paddled it by moonlight on our 11th wedding anniversary. (I mean, how romantic can you get?!)

I grow fonder of this scenic spot near Bend every time I visit.

Especially now that my SUP is pretty much my favorite thing ever, I’m always on the lookout for gorgeous spots to paddle. Whether you go by canoe, kayak, SUP or something else, you’ll love exploring Hosmer Lake.

The post Beautiful Hosmer Lake near Bend, OR: Camping, fishing + paddling appeared first on To & Fro Fam.

Have you tried camping in a yurt yet? Basically, yurt camping happened when tent camping and rustic cabins had a lovechild. Yurt camping gives you the best of both worlds: closeness to nature and the chance to build a campfire, but with a roof over your head, electricity and heat.

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens was actually the first time we stayed in a yurt as a family, and we’ve done it many times since. (After all, Oregon’s dog-friendly yurts make it easy for our kids and pets!). Yurt camping in Oregon also lets us extend the camping season to the shoulder seasons and even the winter.

You see, when you have two young kids, the idea of tent camping in the spring, fall or winter—when weather could be awesome or could be pouring down rain—is too risky to chance it. Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens was a budget-friendly way to spend a few days outdoors—without the risk of getting completely and miserably soaked.

Ft. Stevens has more to offer than great camping accommodations, though. Whether you come to camp or for day use, you’ll love exploring this enormous state park. Play on the beach, climb the dunes, explore the Fort Stevens military base and climb in a real-live shipwreck from more than 100 years ago!

Bottom line: We absolutely love yurt camping, and Ft. Stevens State Park was a gorgeous, fun-filled place to camp. We visit this epic Oregon Coast destination whenever we can!

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: The yurts

You’re not exactly glamping when you’re staying in a state park yurt, but it has enough to be comfortable. It’s a small, round room with a bunk bed, a futon that can serve as a couch or lay flat as a bed, a table, two chairs—and electricity and heat. Standard yurts don’t have a bathroom (you have to walk a short distance to use the campground restrooms), although some campgrounds have deluxe yurts with a bathroom and tiny kitchen.

Heck yes!

I loved our yurt’s skylight, which kept the small space from feeling cramped. Our yurt had four outlets, all next to the door, and it was one of the yurts at Ft. Stevens that allowed pets. (When you make your reservation on Reserve America—the site that arranges campsite rentals for Ft. Stevens—make sure you select a dog-friendly yurt. These are marked by a little icon of a dog. You can also filter the available campsites by clicking the “yurt” button, so you’re only shown yurts—not other types of camping.)

Each Fort Stevens yurt has green space between its neighbors, and the yurt loop was tucked aside so the girls had a quiet road to ride their bikes. Hubs brought his disc golf basket and had plenty of room to putt. That said, you’re not that far from your neighbors, so you will hear noise from other sites—pretty standard for family camping in state parks.

When it rains, you’ll be beyond grateful for the yurt. During the most recent camping trip to Ft Stevens, it poured buckets one night. We 100% would have woken up in water had we been tent camping. Thankfully we stayed dry and cozy in the yurt!

See, that’s one of the best parts about yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: You can stay in this park even when the weather could be wet. When it rains, we all go inside for a little bit to read books, play board games or watch a movie on the kids’ tablet. As soon as the rain stops, we head back out to explore the park—or make s’mores!

Level 10 travel tip: There’s a Starbucks a 10 minutes’ drive away in Warrenton for parents who want a little more luxury than campfire coffee.

Camping in Ft. Stevens, Oregon: The campgrounds

Between the yurts, cabins, tent spots and RV sites, Ft. Stevens State Park has roughly 500 camping sites. We usually opt for much smaller campgrounds, but I was impressed that Ft. Stevens didn’t feel overrun with people. This is partly because of the two sections of campgrounds: south and north. In addition, sites are separated in loops, so you always have some space around you.

One benefit of staying at a large campground was all the amenities: hot showers, potable water spigots every few sites, wheelchair-accessible campsites, trash and recycling facilities, and clean bathrooms.

Note that there are now just two centralized trash and recycling centers—one in the north loops and another in the south. These have receptacles for garbage as well as cardboard, cans, plastic bottles, glass and even debris you’ve found on the beach. This means you’ll have to hang onto trash, including dog waste bags, then make a trip to the trash area. We didn’t find it inconvenient—it is just a part of the nightly routine so animals don’t get into the garbage bag!

Ft. Stevens also has miles of hiking trails and bike paths, as well as a playground. The next time we visit Fort Stevens, we’ll bring all our bikes and pedal from the campground all the way to the historic military fort. The bike path winds through forest, past a bird observation blind and across a few bridges—terrific scenery kids love.

Bottom line: There are plenty of family-friendly activities to keep you and the kids busy!

Level 10 travel tip: Watch for the camp hosts driving a golf cart: They’ll deliver firewood to your site! Wood is $6 a bundle, and fire starters are $1 apiece.

Oregon’s Ft. Stevens: The beach

Ft. Stevens State Park is enormous: It’s made up of 4,300 acres of the northernmost part of the Oregon Coast, and it bumps up against the Columbia River. Several miles of wide beach stretches along the park. Three main entry points provide access to the all-public beach. This helps spread people out so there aren’t huge crowds on nice days, like there are in nearby Seaside, Oregon.

In fact, one of the days we were yurt camping in Ft. Stevens, we were the only ones on the beach we could see.

Did know that every square inch of the Oregon Coast is public, meaning no one can buy the beach? #peoplescoast

Level 10 travel tip: Cars are allowed to drive on certain stretches of the beach in Ft. Stevens, which isn’t really my thing, but be sure to watch for cars when you have little kids or dogs running around.

Dunes line the beach, too. My kids love climbing the dunes then running full-speed down the sandy mountains!

Ft. Stevens camping: The shipwreck

When I told Edie there was a shipwreck on the beach in Ft. Stevens, she told me, “But shipwrecks are only underwater.” She was completely enchanted, then, when she spotted the rusted remains of the Peter Iredale, an English ship that ran aground here in 1906.

The metal skeleton of the ship is a highlight of Ft. Stevens State Park and attracts small crowds of visitors. Peeper and Kiwi delighted in looking around the shipwreck and spotting more pieces a short distance away from the main wreckage. Some of them were essentially tide pools, housing sea creatures inside. The shipwreck is a must-see highlight if you’re yurt camping in Ft. Stevens State Park. 

Level 10 travel tip: If your kids are really interested in the shipwreck, you can bring along a pirate’s hat or a few other props and take pictures of them dressed as buccaneers in front of the wreckage!

The Peter Iredale was just one ship among many that sank in this area of the Oregon Coast. This area is nicknamed the Graveyard of the Pacific, since about 2,000 ships have sunk here since the late 1700s!

Stormy weather plus a sandbar where the Pacific meets the Columbia River make for treacherous sailing. The combined river and ocean currents can cause dangerous waves that rise at a moment’s notice.

Thankfully human-made jetties and dredging have made this area safer. You and your family can also safely explore the shipwreck at Ft. Stevens—just watch the tide!

Fort Stevens historic military site

Ft. Stevens was a built during the Civil War and operated until World War II. Even if military history isn’t a huge attraction for your family, there’s plenty to explore here. A museum holds military artifacts, and a walking tour will take you to see historic military artifacts like tanks, gun batteries, searchlights and more.

You can step inside some of the abandoned buildings and see how time has taken a toll on this military fort. Climb atop the fort and walk the sentry walls to dive into the past.

Level 10 travel tip: If you visit with kids, don’t miss the museum. The lovely volunteer there gave my kids a challenge, and once they answered her (easy) question, she gave them a free Ft. Stevens pin! They were overjoyed.

The Ft. Stevens historical site also includes several viewpoints of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. Bring your binoculars: You will likely see different birds, and if you’re there during whale watching season, keep an eye out for their spouts.

Level 10 travel tip: Kids who are interested in the military will love the tour that runs from inside a 1954 army truck (with wheels taller than a 4-year-old!).

Fort Stevens was actually attacked by a Japanese submarine during World War II. The military, government and even citizens worried about an attempted invasion during these years and so posted units of soldiers here for defense.

Ft. Stevens Disc Golf Course

Much to my brother’s and husband’s excitement, the Ft. Stevens disc golf course is now open! You can play the 18-hole course, called Columbia Shores Disc Golf Course, when you visit the Fort Stevens Military Site. The course includes long and short tee positions to make it fun for both beginners and more experienced DG-ers.

This disc golf course is built alongside the Columbia River, so it gets quite windy. Wear layers and be prepared for your discs to misbehave.

Still, the views from some of the tee pads are epic.

Please respect directions to not play certain holes during the winter. This area is important nesting habitat for birds, and their populations depend on having undisturbed nests. The nesting grounds give a different meaning to the phrase “birdie” for disc golf! (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)

You can buy discs in the military site museum/visitor center. You can also borrow them from the Ft. Stevens campground—ask park hosts or inquire at the campground visitor center. Remember to pay the $5 day use fee or use your Oregon State Parks annual pass.

Fort Stevens camping: Coffenbury Lake

Freshwater Coffenbury Lake is a short hike or bike ride away from many of the campsites at Ft. Stevens. The lake has two swimming areas as well as a boat ramp and picnic tables. (Speed limit for boats is 10 mph.)

When we were there, plenty of folks were fishing. If you do fish, please respect other campers and properly dispose of the debris when you clean the fish, and make sure you collect all fishing line and hooks for everyone’s safety.

Level 10 travel tip: A 2-mile trail winds all around the lake, making it a flat and easy hike for even little walkers.

Picnic tables surround Coffenburry Lake, especially from the southern access point. There is also a restroom with flush toilets.

Even more things to do at Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon!

Take a breath: Can you believe there are even more fun things to do at Fort Stevens State Park? I know, this Oregon Coast park is enormous!

To explore the park fully, you’ll need to drive. Bikes are not allowed past certain points, and it’s too far to walk from one point to another. Though if you’re committed, you can hike the entirety of the trails, including some that go along the sand dunes and the jetty!

Ft. Stevens Observation Tower

Drive north on the main road within Ft. Stevens to reach Lot C, on the South Jetty. There, a wooden observation tower gives you a view of the Pacific Ocean from two stories up.

The platform is big enough to accommodate several groups while maintaining safe social distance. You need to climb stairs to get to the top: The observation tower is not accessible to people in wheelchairs or with other mobility limitations.

What I love about the observation tower in Ft. Stevens State Park is that it gives you a different perspective on the Pacific Ocean. Typically, we see the sea as it breaks along a beach. Here, though, the jetty juts out into the ocean itself. Waves are big and wild. The tower provides a sense of the sea’s power, especially on a stormy day!

Columbia River estuary

One of the things that makes this part of the Oregon Coast so unique is that it’s where the ocean and the Columbia River meet. (For American history fans, the Columbia River is how the famous explorers Lewis and Clark found their way to the Pacific Ocean. They overwintered near Ft. Stevens, at Fort Clatsop in Astoria, OR.)

The Columbia River is enormous. Maxine and Edie kept calling it the ocean, and it’s an easy to make mistake! Big ships still use the river to access ports inland.

From Lot D within Ft. Stevens, you can walk a short trail to the bank of the Columbia River. But as it’s connected to the ocean, its height varies with the tide. When we visited near low tide, the water receded and left a huge, flat beach. The kids loved running around and wading into the water.

While you’re here, walk along the wooden boardwalk to the bird blind bunker. (I know, it sounds like something out of a post-apocalyptic story, but trust me!) It’s a little concrete shelter where you can watch for birds within this shorebird conservation area.

Yurt camping in Ft. Stevens: What you need to know

Now that you’re beyond excited to camp at Ft. Stevens State Park in Oregon, here are the nitty gritty details you need:

• You can reserve a yurt (or any other site) at Ft. Stevens up to 6 months in advance, and you’ll need to make reservations months ahead of time for peak season camping, especially for weekend dates.
• Yurts are $48 per night, or $58 per night for a pet-friendly yurt.
• Ft. Stevens State Park is about 20 minutes north of Seaside, and about 2 hours from Portland.
• Yurts have electricity and heat, but the only cooking facilities are your campfire! (That means no cooking inside the yurt.)
• Yurts have mattresses but no bedding. Bring your own blankets or sleeping bags.
• Please double-check all information on the Oregon State Parks website. All info here has been updated for 2022, but it may change in the future.

FAQs for Fort Stevens camping

Is there wifi at Fort Stevens?

Nope. You’ll be semi-rustic while camping at Fort Stevens State Park, so don’t expect wifi. In fact, some areas of the park might have only spotty cell service.

The Hammond, Oregon KOA across the street from the entrance to Fort Stevens State Park does have so-so wifi. There’s also a Starbucks a few miles down the road.

Are dogs allowed at Fort Stevens State Park?

Absolutely! (Our two rescue dogs, Finn and Luna, love camping and playing on the beach at Ft. Stevens!) That said, dogs must remain on-leash throughout the park.

Dog poop bags are stationed periodically throughout the park and Fort Stevens campground. Please be courteous and always pick up after your pet.

In general, the beaches on the Oregon Coast are very friendly to off-leash dogs. That said, if your dog is aggressive or can’t be trusted with voice commands, it’s best to keep them on-leash.

Can you have campfires at Fort Stevens State Park?

Yes! Campsites at Fort Stevens State Park include fire rings, which are the only areas where campfires are allowed.

The Oregon State Parks system sometimes starts a fire ban, though. During late summer, when risk for wildfires increases, don’t be surprised if you’re not allowed to burn at your Ft. Stevens campsite.

Whenever you burn a campfire, make sure to practice safety. Keep a bucket of water nearby, keep flames lower than hip-level, and always fully extinguish a fire before walking away. Safety first!

Does the Ft. Stevens campground sell firewood, ice, etc?

Yes! To encourage social distancing, wood sales are self-serve much of the year. (In peak camping season, a camp host drives through the campground selling wood from a golf card—what service!) Wood barns are located throughout the park, where you can buy bundles of wood ($6) and kindling ($3). Take what you need and leave payment in a locked box.

Ft. Stevens also has an information booth at the intersection between the north and south loops. Here, you can get brochures on things to do on the Oregon Coast as well as buy ice. Pay attention to the booth’s hours of service, though. It has shortened operation during non-peak months.

Hoo boy, that’s a lot of information about Fort Stevens camping! We’ve covered campgrounds, all the amenities at this state park, fun activities to keep you entertained, and lots of details about the Fort Stevens yurts.

When we left, we all waved goodbye to our yurt—a little sadly. But I won’t be too heartbroken; after all, we’ll go yurt camping again soon.

Have you ever gone yurt camping before, or have you been to Ft. Stevens State Park in Oregon? What did you think?

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